El Malpais National Monument

El Malpais, “the badlands” in Spanish, is a volcanic landscape of lava flows, cinder cones and lava tube caves south of Grants, New Mexico. Overlooks and short trails line the highways on its edges, and rough routes cross the lava where there is no shade, no water and few markers.

Fast facts

• Established: 1987
• Size: about 114,000 acres (463 km²)
• Youngest flow: McCartys, among the youngest lava flows in the continental United States
• Historic route: the Zuni-Acoma Trail, an ancient footpath between two pueblos
• Gateway: Grants, on I-40
• Managed by: the National Park Service, with El Malpais National Conservation Area (BLM) next door

The landscape

Lava from dozens of eruptions covers the valley floor in rough black flows, some only a few thousand years old. Cinder cones rise above them, and collapsed lava tubes form long trenches with caves at their ends. Sandstone bluffs line the eastern edge. The monument sits at about 6,500 to 8,000 feet (1,980 to 2,440 m).

Best time to go

Spring and fall are best. Summer averages around 80°F (27°C), with monsoon storms from July. Winter is cool and sunny with occasional snow, and caves hold ice year-round.

Getting there and around

No roads cross the monument. NM 53 runs along the west and north side, from I-40 exit 81, and NM 117 along the east side, from exit 89. The visitor center is in Grants, off exit 85. The Chain of Craters backcountry byway and the road to the Big Tubes area are dirt and need high clearance, especially after rain.

Things to do

Easy stops include Sandstone Bluffs Overlook, with wide views over the lava, and the El Calderon trail, a 3- or 5-mile (5 or 8 km) route past lava tubes and a cinder cone. On summer evenings, bats pour out of a cave along the El Calderon trail. La Ventana, a large sandstone arch, is off NM 117 in the conservation area next door.

Serious hikers cross the Zuni-Acoma Trail, 7.5 miles (12 km) one way over four lava flows, rough and marked by cairns (piles of rocks set as route markers). The Narrows Rim Trail follows the top of the bluffs, the Lava Falls route crosses the youngest flow, and experienced cavers explore lava tubes in the Big Tubes area with a free caving permit, a helmet and at least two light sources.

Staying safe

Lava is sharp and uneven, and routes across it are hard to follow; wear sturdy boots, carry a map and watch for cairns. There is no water on the lava, and summer heat and afternoon lightning are real risks. Caves are dark, cold and have loose rock and ice, so never cave alone.

Know before you go

There is no entrance fee. Caves need a free permit from the park, which screens for white-nose syndrome, a disease that kills bats. Overnight backcountry trips need a free permit. This page is a general overview, not a live conditions report, so confirm cave and road status with the National Park Service before you go.

Coordinates

34.8627, -107.9778

Magnetic declination

8.4° E (2026)

Set this declination on your compass, then align it to the map's north lines; it is the angle between true north and magnetic north, refreshed each year.

How declination works, and how to navigate with a map and compass

Best seasons

Spring, Fall

Difficulty

Easy to strenuous

Access / trailheads

NM 53 (I-40 exit 81) on the west and north, NM 117 (exit 89) on the east; visitor center in Grants (exit 85). Dirt roads to Big Tubes and the Chain of Craters need high clearance.

Water

None on trails or the lava. Carry all you need.

Cell / satellite coverage

Fair along I-40 and near Grants; patchy to none on the lava.

Nearest ranger / SAR / emergency

Emergencies: 911. Visitor center: 505-876-2783.

Permits & regulations

No entrance fee. Free caving permit (white-nose syndrome screening) and free backcountry permit for overnight trips.

Leave No Trace

Stay on routes and cairned trails, never build or move cairns, decontaminate gear before caves, and pack out everything.